Luca Turin on the science of scent

What’s the science behind a sublime perfume? With charm and precision, biophysicist Luca Turin explains the molecular makeup — and the art — of a scent.





Biophysicist Luca Turin studies the science of smell. He’s a leading proponent of the vibrational theory of smell — the idea that when our noses pick up a scent, we’re reacting to the vibrational properties of the molecule we’re smelling. (This is in opposition to the shape theory of smell, which imagines smelly molecules fitting into conveniently shaped receptors in our noses.)


His work on olfactory reception and the prediction of what a particular molecule will smell like has led to an interesting line of work: designing new fragrances and flavor molecules, as part of the firm Flexitral, where he is CTO. Coming up, he’ll be part of a team in Biomedical Engineering at MIT, headed by Professor Shuguang Zhang, to develop an artificial nose made with natural receptors as part of DARPA’s just-launched RealNose program.


He’s the author of several books on scent, including Perfumes: The Guide and The Secret of Scent, and is the subject of Chandler Burr’s 2003 book The Emperor of Scent.


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We have been hearing about “aroma” or “scent” marketing for close to 40 years now, but only over the past decade has there been such a rapid increase in this exciting market sector. The future of aroma marketing looks to be very strong.


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Green Aria a ScentOpera at Guggenheim Museum

ScentOpera


The ScentOpera introduces a new art form created by Stewart Matthew based only on smell and sound. Matthew collaborates with renowned fragrance designer Christophe Laudamiel and composers Nico Muhly and Valgeir Sigurdsson.


Taking a libretto written by Matthew, Laudamiel creates unique scents that convey the story of the libretto. The dry scents are distributed by a one-of-a-kind scent organ engineered and created by Fläkt Woods that pumps the scents to ‘scent microphones’ attached to each seat. The scents are enhanced by original music written by Nico Muhly and Valgeir Sigurdsson. Together the music and scents tell the story of Green Aria, a Scent Opera.


The ScentOpera takes a step to extend the Wagnerian vision to a complete multi-sensory art form integrating all of the senses with the arts.


In the ScentOpera there will be no singing; instead of words, the libretto will be the written story and structure encompassing chords of perfumes/scents. The audience will be introduced to a new grammar, a new form of art in which scents will be dramatically ‘telling’ the story. Music and sound design will play a supporting role and will be precision coordinated to release of scents.


Each seat is outfitted with a ‘scent microphone’. The scents are inhaled, and the human body will play them.


Each scent will have complex chords. Chords of scent have the unique capacity to carry symbolic and associative meanings and memories. For example, some scents may be associated with tastes, others with flavors. We all instantly recognize the smell of fresh air or smoke. Other scents are less recognizable and become ‘definable’ through conditioning and context. In the ScentOpera the scent libretto will evoke associative meanings or meanings defined within the context of the unfolding narrative.


As in a spoken word that incorporates sound and lexical meaning, so the body plays a scent and the musical notes, in part, will be supporting the scents and helping the scents ‘sound’. The scent and music will combine according to new dynamics and a unique time metric, all new tools put to the purpose of creating a new narrative form.


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Ernesto Neto creates scented environment at New York’s Park Avenue Armory

Brazilian artist Ernesto Neto has created anthropodino, an “immense interactive installation” at the Park Avenue Armory in New York City:


Park Avenue Armory launches its first commissioned art installation with anthropodino, a large-scale, interactive work by world-renowned artist, Ernesto Neto. Using hundreds of yards of translucent material filled with aromatic spices. Spices such clove, cumin, ginger, turmeric, black pepper and ginger.


Ernesto Neto’s anthropodino runs through June 14. General admission is $10; kids under 18 are free.


Video of Ernesto Neto talking about the installation:



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